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Walking along the Via Romea Germanica from Stade, near Hamburg, in Germany south through Austria and Italy to Rome.

Friday 27 April 2018

Würzburg and Sommerhausen – Day 30 and 31 on the Via Romea.

These few days have been a mixture of walking and train travelling to try and make up time, as I am in danger of either not making it to Rome, or missing my flight home!

Leaving Wipfeld was a delight.  As I said, I stopped there because of potential lack of accommodation if I moved on, and it just seemed a good place to stop.  When it came time to leave my hostess pressed a bag of chocolate treats into my hand “for energy”.  That set the scene for the day.  I had just made my way to the square and was reading the numerous signs to confirm where I was going, when a car stopped beside me.  Learning that I was an English speaker the driver parked his car properly so that he could talk, giving me suggestions of paths and chatting about the delightful village.  Like so many places I have travelled through I heard the same story  “Our houses need to be repaired, and it is only the old people left because the young people leave – for work, or a change in lifestyle”. 
Leaving Wipfeld

Looking back at the village

I think somehow, despite this man’s help, I managed to take the wrong path, enjoyable nonetheless.  Heading uphill, leaving the town, I had good views looking back and very soon reached Schwanfeld, working my way through the pretty village  heading along a narrow road.  On the other side of the village I again passed a couple of those rather large farms, stopping for a rest on the edge of a beautiful patch of scrub.  As I walked up the hill, my wish was granted, because there, strategically placed on the edge of the woodland, was a seat where I could sit and enjoy the view – as I am sure the locals do when they go for an evening stroll.  After strolling through the delightful woodland, I was then in horticultural territory.  I passed fields of newly planted red cabbage, strawberries and glass houses with who knows what in them.  In Bergtheim I made my way to the railway station.  Here, again, I met someone very helpful.  A young man who just happened to be on the platform said “yes I was in the right place, and would I like him to help me get a ticket”, an offer I couldn’t refuse.  As I had been walking, I knew that I would not be able to reach Würzburg that evening, and there was not likely to be anywhere in between to either stay or catch a train – which is why I was at the station. 
The Church at Schwanfeld .....
 ....and the way

The train trip to Würzburg was interesting, and it was a big surprise to arrive in the town so close to the central city.  I headed down what appeared to be a main shopping precinct, but when I asked, no one could tell me where the tourist office was.  It is a pity that it is not signposted from the station, as the shopping precinct I was in appears to be the centre, whereas it is quite a bit further along.  Eventually, after finding the Tourist Office, they helped me with both finding a room, and a physio.  I went for another appointment – just to make sure all was OK. 
                         
The church which is next to the Tourist Office, and the candle stick that caught my eye.
At last I found the tourist office.

Würzburg is an interesting city.  Very easy to get around, and much to see.  I will let the photos talk.  This whole region as I have said elsewhere on this blog, is a very strong wine region.  Looking out of the town vineyards can be seen climbing the hillsides, and vast winery buildings can also be seen.  Right in the centre of the city are a number of nationally famous wineries, though I didn’t go exploring them. 
    
The Wurtzburg Residenz, built in the ealy 1700's and a UNESCO world Heritage sight since the early 1980's.  The court gardens are very beautiful.




      
 St Killian's Cathedral above & below the rear of the building.  When I looked closely, I found a whole lot of unusual sculptures!  Don't think I have seen anything quite so grim!                    
        

This Church (above), next to the Cathedral was unusual in that it had lovely frescoes, and then nearby a series of modern paintings (below).
 

The next day I set off, following the River Main.  Lots of opportunities for photos, so it took quite a long time to leave the city.  Another bike path – the whole way!  But this time I had to share the path, not only with cyclists, joggers, and  dog walkers, but with roller-skaters!  Because the surface of the track is so good, combined with the fact that it is more or less level, it is a perfect venue for skaters – though it is very hard on walkers feet.  There were quite a few opportunities though to walk on the verge which is much kinder to a pilgrim’s feet!
Marienburg Fortress, with vineyards below.

These stairs caught my eye as I left town.

Because it took so long to walk out of the city it was lunch time by the time I reached the first village – Randersacker – and perfectly placed very near the path was a wonderful bakery.  Well satisfied over a leisurely lunch I then headed for the next village, Eibelstadt. 
The vineyards are very steep - the two men in the bottom right corner give some perspective.
The entrance to Randersacker.
                         
A different sort of fountain in Randesecker, and in case you don't know which way to go, there are no shortage of signs!
Randersecker

My destination for the night was Sommerhausen, a small town which many people had praised as being a delightful village.  Between these two villages a skater flew past wishing me a “Buen Camino”.  Some time later she returned and stopped and chatted for quite a while.  It transpired that Patricia had lived in New Zealand for several years, some of that time in Christchurch!  She had walked the Camino in 2001 – 4 years before I walked it for the first time, and only a couple of months before Hape Kerkeling, THE German Camino authour (Camino buffs know who I am referring to) walked it.  Fortunately, I was facing the brewing clouds on the horizon, and noticed how black they had got while we were talking.  Patricia unhooked my umbrella for me, and sure enough, about 20 minutes later I had to put it up!  There had been so much pollen in the air all day that the puddles had yellow edges to them as the pollen was washed off the asphalt.  
 
Patricia (left) and other skaters on the path.

By the time I arrived in Sommerhausen, 30 minutes later, I was glad to be shown to my room, where I put my foot up and rested before heading out to see the village.  The praise for the village is well deserved.  It is indeed a pretty village, small and neat. 
  The Church bell tower in Sommerhausen - viewed from the path, and (below) inside the church, in its simplicity.
      

      
My hotel - the Ritter Jorg in Sommerhausen.

This region is eating a big hole in my pocket.  Because I am travelling alone, it is costing more, though unlike Australia, usually single rooms are reduced to a degree, but this whole area is very expensive for accommodation compared to other places I have been on this pilgrimage.   I guess that’s the price for a good wine – everyone wants to sample it!

2 comments:

  1. The experiences are stacking up alright & I love the authentic German encounters.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Such beautiful and enticing pathways . Love the photos capturing the sense of beauty of the villages .

    ReplyDelete