Wasserleben, Wernigerode, and Elbingerode– Days 13, 14 and 15 of the Via Romea.

With such a leisurely start to the day, wandering around the village of Osterwieck with Martin, I didn’t head off until late morning.  The path was easy, mostly on tarmac, though there was always a soft verge to walk on.  It was flat, but this time I had views of the Brocken as I walked.  It was a lovely sunny day, but with a cold easterly blowing, and I continued to have the fragrance of the violets wafting my way. 

There was only one village to walk through before reaching my destination for the night, and yes, as I was leaving it I managed to miss the way.  There is a big farm on the outskirts of this village (Berßel), and I, like many before me apparently – according to the farmer – took the wrong path.  Once back on the right track I had a most delightful meander along the banks of the Ilse (pronounced ILSA) as it bubbled along next to the path.  It was so nice I even stopped for a while and had snack from my almond supply!

Looking back for a last look at Osterwieck

The path as it meandered along the Ilse

It was crystal clear looking towards the Brocken

My destination was only another 5 or 6 kilomtetres up the road, Wasserleben, and what a delightful surprise it was.  I should have realised that with a name like this it would have something to do with water (water = wasser) and it did.  The town had clear running water flowing down the side of almost every street.  Each “wasser” was forded by cars, but had a bridge for pedestrians.  I was trying to figure out where I was going and asked several people, including a man sitting behind a pony cart.  He said follow the “wasser” and I would find it.  He was right.  Almost at the end of the “wasser” was Minikan House, my destination for the night. 

 The man who told me simply to "follow the wasser" - pronounced vasser

 The wasser in Wasserleben

The massive buildings in the Domaine

Yet another surprise.  My room was the “blue room” at the top of the stairs.  I had to duck my head to go through into this beautiful and comfy room.  After depositing my pack, I was given a huge bowl of broccoli soup and delicious bread with sunflower seeds in it for a late lunch.  I sat in the garden eating lunch and just relaxing in – a bit of a novel experience thus far.  Tina was my charming hostess and had the most interesting home full of intriguing things for a collector like myself!  I went out and explored the town checking out the “wasser” some more, looking at the old church, I think in a sad state of repair, and walking through the Domaine, surrounded with HUGE buildings – presumably barns, so high that the mind boggles as to what and how the space was used.

 Minikan Haus

 My blue room

The laden breakfast table

Along the way I have assistance from various people when it comes to finding a room somewhere.  Jens was the first person I contacted nearly a year ago when this path caught my attention.  Jens works at the Tourist Office in Wernigeroda, and though I had yet to meet him he had organised my stay in Wasserleben and in Wernigeroda.  I couldn’t have organised it better myself in both places.  In Wernigeroda Jens had organised for me to stay with Christoph and Gisela, and just like my time with Reinhard back at the beginning of the way this stop was a highlight.  We shared an evening meal together, played and sang hymns around the piano, and talked – a lot.  I did so enjoy my stay with them, and I hope this first experience of hosting a pilgrim will encourage them to continue.  Thank you Gisela and Christoph for a wonderful stay.

Christoph and Gisela farewelling me

Again, because I did not have far to travel I arrived early and so left my pack at the house and went into the town to explore.  What a delightful town it is, though on a Sunday afternoon it was jam-packed with tourists.  Jens told me later that the town has a million overnight stays per year – that’s a lot of tourists. 

 Just some of the million tourists in Wernigerode!

Some of the lovely buldings i Wernigerode (above and below)

A man tried to persude me and another chap to climb the tower - but we both decined!

 The buildings almost "wrapped" around another church (below)

 I love the sentiments on this pole, just near the church.

The Scloss that overlooks Wernigerode

I made my way into the town after sharing breakfast with Gisela and Christoph, and there I met Jens.  I found that he had organised the next two nights accommodation for me, and I have been really spoilt.  After sharing some time together Jens walked with me for an hour or so.  It was great to have his company leaving the town, as he knew the way and I did not have to stop and decide if I was on the right way of not, nor really even have to look for the signs, which compared to Jakobsweg / Camino signs are smaller and sometimes harder to spot from a distance.  Again the path followed the Ilse out of town, going up the valley slowly and steadily until it crossed the road – then it went uphill.  The first steep uphill on the whole way, thus far. 

 Jens and me outside the Rathaus

 Jens on the last leg of his short walk with me

 Just some of the types of paths I walked on to Elbingerode

The path climbed up through the forest, where some logging had been undertaken.  Not all of this was deliberate logging though.  The storms of a few months ago have felled many, many trees, uprooting them mostly, but there are quite a few, with sizeable trunks, that have just snapped 3 or 4 feet above the ground.  I walked for several hundred metres beside a swathe of trees that had been felled by the storm – hardly a single tree left standing, and all lying in the same direction. 

and just one of the obstacles along the way.

My destination was Elbingerode – the Diakonissen-Mutterhaus, run by the sisters, a hospital, a home for the elderly, and a clinic for such things as alcohol and drug abuse.  Jens had said, almost as the last thing before he returned to work, that I would have to go to the opposite side of the town to reach it.  Well I probably should have had to have done that – except somewhere, about an hour out of town I missed the path and ended up coming right past the place – very convenient, but no idea where I went wrong!

Diakonissen-Mutterhaus, and the part of the building I stayed in (below)

 Elbingerode

This too was a wonderful night.  My room was comfy, I shared dinner and breakfast with residents, AND I had Wi-Fi so could do another blog post and start to catch up.  Again, this post I have to say a big thank you to Tina, Christoph & Gisela, and Jens for helping me on my way.  You are wonderful people and your help is greatly appreciated.