Much has happened since I last wrote. I decided that I needed to make up some time, and caught the bus to Padova from Bassano del Grappa. This gave me a rest day in which my feet could recover, and I could do a little sightseeing in a very historical and important Italian town.
Padova is a lovely city, and while I was there I took advantage of the bus tour of the city. This is always a good way to see a city as one gets to hear the history of the place, plus, in this instance see the sights from the top of a double decker bus. I stayed in a room I had to myself in the youth hostel in Padova and on the second night I had to get up and close the partly open window as rain was blowing in. This was the second of two thunderstorms and was the most ferocious one. The first one hit just as I was leaving the Capella degli Scrovegni. For almost half an hour there was continual rolling thunder, as well as very heavy rain. I was glad not to be walking with my pack and out in it!
Padova is also famous for being the home of Saint Anthony. His body is buried in the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, a massive building. There are many other churches in Padova with art works and special histories, perhaps the most famous being the Capella degli Scrovegni – an extraordinary chapel that is now part of the museum and has been restored. This Capella can only be viewed by booking a place on a tour. Once given the tour time, people are required to arrive 5 minutes before, then go into a waiting room where they are “de-humidified!” followed with a time of 15 minutes to view the wonderful frescos by the artist Giotto.
The Basilica Santa Guistina is another beautiful church which is on the edge of the Piazza di Sant’Antonio. It is where Santa Guistina, one of the most important people in the history of Padova. Until Saint Anthony became the Patron Saint of the city it was Santa Guistina who had that honour. Many people still make the pilgrimage to this church to honour her.
Leaving Padova started well enough, there were plenty of signs to confirm I was in the right place, and only a few puddles to negotiate. However, as I made my way along the canal cycle path towards Monselice I was becoming more and more disheartened. My feet were still sore, there was nowhere to get off the path, no-where to sit down and have a rest, and it was starting to get very hot and humid. It was quite a distance before I found a bridge that I could cross to get a pizzeria where I could sit and relax for a bit. Here I decided that I would hop on a bus to Monselice the next stop. It was the best thing I could have done, as once I had checked into my room I went to the square to watch the world go by. Here I spent a very pleasant afternoon in the company of Nick and Ian, two Englishmen. While talking to them I sat with my foot up on a chair, with a bag of ice resting on my swollen foot, a real lady of leisure, but it did the trick, reducing the swelling of my foot, and making it much less painful to walk. Thankyou for your company and the bandage Nick & Ian!
I stayed in a lovely hostel in Monselice, and because I arrived early I was able to do a bit of “sightseeing” of the town. It is an impressive town, with lots of very old buildings and it is great to see that the restoration process is going ahead on some of these buildings. It meant I couldn’t go into the Chiesa di Santa Guistina for instance, but it is good to know that it won’t be falling down anytime soon. There is also an interesting Palazzo in town which has sculptures of dwarfs on the wall. This is apparently a reference to the former owners of the building (one assumes there were short people in this family!).
The next day though I decided that there was no way that I would be able to walk 30kms. I was afraid that I would undo all the good I had done with my feet by sitting and chatting to Nick and Ian would be undone. Hence I hopped on the bus to Rovigo. I hadn’t booked a room, deciding to take a punt that the room in the B&B would be vacant. As I made my way through the town I was stopped b y a couple of blokes wanting to know what I was doing and where I was headed. It was nice to be wished Bonne Camino as I said goodbye to them. I had only gone a few metres when a man on a bike stopped and asked “B & B?” to which I replied “yes”. He pointed to himself and told me that he was the B & B. It was at this place that Paul, who had walked this route a month or so before me, had stayed. The owner was the son of a very well known shoe designer. On the landing of the B & B was a showcase of some of his designs, and in the town itself there was another display in one of the buildings.
Rovigo is famous for it’s leaning towers, leaning, by design bot by default, though I have no idea what the purpose of such a lean would be. There were other surprises in Rovigo too. It was the first day of the school holidays and so the teenagers were out en-masse having lunch or drinks together. While I wandered the town I would come across coverts of them.
Walking out of Rovigo I followed the passegiata Baden Powell, complete with signs about scouting and its history. The signs looked relatively new, but I was thinking that perhaps it was to mark the centenary of scouting back in 2008. On one sign there was even a mention of the Brownsea Island camp.
It was a very hot day’s walk to Quarti, my destination a few kilometres short of the suggested goal of Pollesella. I did a bar crawl all the way, stopping and having an “agua frizzante” each time I found a bar open! I needed it! The last bar I stopped in was at a little village called Gaurda de Veneta. I was passing the bar and was about to go in past a bunch of blokes sitting outside when I was harangue by one of them. As I could only see men, and not understanding what he was saying I thought perhaps he was saying women weren’t allowed. Eventually I got out that I was an Australian and with that I was welcomed warmly. I was trying to tell them where I was headed and had come from, and eventually got the map out – they were impressed! They, and so many I meet are surprised (and I think, impressed)that I am alone. It is always too hard to explain that I am meeting a friend who is going to walk with me for two weeks.
I am behind again. I have met Jill and we have had one very hot day on the road together and are getting ready to face another. Bu more of that next time.
Padova is a lovely city, and while I was there I took advantage of the bus tour of the city. This is always a good way to see a city as one gets to hear the history of the place, plus, in this instance see the sights from the top of a double decker bus. I stayed in a room I had to myself in the youth hostel in Padova and on the second night I had to get up and close the partly open window as rain was blowing in. This was the second of two thunderstorms and was the most ferocious one. The first one hit just as I was leaving the Capella degli Scrovegni. For almost half an hour there was continual rolling thunder, as well as very heavy rain. I was glad not to be walking with my pack and out in it!
The view of the market from the bus....
......and another view down a canal
Padova is also famous for being the home of Saint Anthony. His body is buried in the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, a massive building. There are many other churches in Padova with art works and special histories, perhaps the most famous being the Capella degli Scrovegni – an extraordinary chapel that is now part of the museum and has been restored. This Capella can only be viewed by booking a place on a tour. Once given the tour time, people are required to arrive 5 minutes before, then go into a waiting room where they are “de-humidified!” followed with a time of 15 minutes to view the wonderful frescos by the artist Giotto.
The beautiful Giotti frescos in the Capella degli Scrovegni
Basilica di Sant’Antonio (left & below), and a display aout walking and pilgrimage that was on in the cloisters of the Basilica.
The Basilica Santa Guistina is another beautiful church which is on the edge of the Piazza di Sant’Antonio. It is where Santa Guistina, one of the most important people in the history of Padova. Until Saint Anthony became the Patron Saint of the city it was Santa Guistina who had that honour. Many people still make the pilgrimage to this church to honour her.
The plaza Sant'Antonio, with the Basilica Santa Guistina in the distance
Although Andre Rieu would not agree (he thinks the square in Maastricht is the most beautiful in Europe) my guide notes declared that the Sant‘Antonio Square is the largest and most beautiful in Italy, and probably in Europe. I agree that it is very beautiful – really a square within a square. On the outside some traffic is allowed – a few cars, lots of bicycles, and the trams and bus. On the inside of this is a wide area for pedestrians to wander, and then within that space is a “moat” with life sized statues around both sides of the water and 4 bridges to cross it, with lovely grassed areas within that area. The notes are right – it is magnificent (and so is the Maastricht Square).
Leaving Padova started well enough, there were plenty of signs to confirm I was in the right place, and only a few puddles to negotiate. However, as I made my way along the canal cycle path towards Monselice I was becoming more and more disheartened. My feet were still sore, there was nowhere to get off the path, no-where to sit down and have a rest, and it was starting to get very hot and humid. It was quite a distance before I found a bridge that I could cross to get a pizzeria where I could sit and relax for a bit. Here I decided that I would hop on a bus to Monselice the next stop. It was the best thing I could have done, as once I had checked into my room I went to the square to watch the world go by. Here I spent a very pleasant afternoon in the company of Nick and Ian, two Englishmen. While talking to them I sat with my foot up on a chair, with a bag of ice resting on my swollen foot, a real lady of leisure, but it did the trick, reducing the swelling of my foot, and making it much less painful to walk. Thankyou for your company and the bandage Nick & Ian!
I stayed in a lovely hostel in Monselice, and because I arrived early I was able to do a bit of “sightseeing” of the town. It is an impressive town, with lots of very old buildings and it is great to see that the restoration process is going ahead on some of these buildings. It meant I couldn’t go into the Chiesa di Santa Guistina for instance, but it is good to know that it won’t be falling down anytime soon. There is also an interesting Palazzo in town which has sculptures of dwarfs on the wall. This is apparently a reference to the former owners of the building (one assumes there were short people in this family!).
Looking over Monselice from the church, and the restoration work goes on (below left), and the gates next to the church (below right)
The Palazzo with statues lining the steps, and along the wall, the statues of dwarfs.
Scenes in Monselice
The square in Monselice
Icing my foot while chatting with Nick and Ian in Monselice.
Rovigo is famous for it’s leaning towers, leaning, by design bot by default, though I have no idea what the purpose of such a lean would be. There were other surprises in Rovigo too. It was the first day of the school holidays and so the teenagers were out en-masse having lunch or drinks together. While I wandered the town I would come across coverts of them.
One of the symbols of Rovigo is it's two leaning towers (abover & below)
The biggest surprise was an octagonal church known as the Chiesa del Rotonda. Another building, like so many in this region, being repaired / restored. When I approached it I thought it was closed due to works, but going around it I found it open and a guide talking to a bus load of tourists. My host had told me to visit this church and I had no idea what to expect. On entry the whole place was filled with paintings floor to ceiling, and in little niches on the wall were huge statues of various saints. I was glad to just sit and look while the man spoke to the bus tour. It was wonderful, and a complete surprise.
Inside and out of the Duomo, Rovigo
Walking out of Rovigo I followed the passegiata Baden Powell, complete with signs about scouting and its history. The signs looked relatively new, but I was thinking that perhaps it was to mark the centenary of scouting back in 2008. On one sign there was even a mention of the Brownsea Island camp.
Leaving Rovigo
Oriano helped clarify the route. He had apparently helped mark some of the routes in the region, including the Cammino di Sant'Antonio.
It was a very hot day’s walk to Quarti, my destination a few kilometres short of the suggested goal of Pollesella. I did a bar crawl all the way, stopping and having an “agua frizzante” each time I found a bar open! I needed it! The last bar I stopped in was at a little village called Gaurda de Veneta. I was passing the bar and was about to go in past a bunch of blokes sitting outside when I was harangue by one of them. As I could only see men, and not understanding what he was saying I thought perhaps he was saying women weren’t allowed. Eventually I got out that I was an Australian and with that I was welcomed warmly. I was trying to tell them where I was headed and had come from, and eventually got the map out – they were impressed! They, and so many I meet are surprised (and I think, impressed)that I am alone. It is always too hard to explain that I am meeting a friend who is going to walk with me for two weeks.
The blokes at the bar in Guarda de Veneta
The church at Guarda de Veneta
I am behind again. I have met Jill and we have had one very hot day on the road together and are getting ready to face another. Bu more of that next time.
Enjoying following your trip .
ReplyDeleteVery cold here
Take care
They can also interact through the chatbots of the various restaurants in an easy and simplified way. padova
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