Stade to Haresdeld - Day 1 of Hiking

Contemplating the start

I began my day by going to the St John Monastery where Abbott Albert began his journey to Rome.  The original building was destroyed in the fire, and these days the building is used as offices, so tiny that Christina tells me that the windows are thrown wide open to let in light and air.  It was once a home for the elderly too.  Having taken the photos of the little sculpture of a monk in repose, suggesting the Abbott, but not actually him (that I couldn’t take the night before because it was too dark), I then collected my pack and set off.  The market was cranking up as I walked through the square and I stopped for a quick coffee, buying a bread roll in case I needed it for lunch.  

Market day in Stade

The Starting point in Stade

I had had a message the night before from Sigrid, a pilgrim living in Stade, who had said she would see me on the way.  I had only gone a few hundred metres when I saw her waving at me – a pilgrim is easily recognizable to another pilgrim.  Sigrid said that if it were OK with me she would walk as far as my night’s rest stop as the way was sometimes tricky to find, and the Catholic Church where the albergue was, particularly so.  I was glad of her company  and as we chatted and laughed our way along, the kilometres passed quickly.  The way, as I expected was flat - not a wrinkle anywhere!  What made finding the way easier was that we were following (occasionally) the Via Romea but also the Via Baltica signs, which thankfully, were much more frequent.  The Via Baltica is a newish Jacobsweg and it so happens that the signs were managed by Tina who I had met the previous night, and who Sigrid was going out with the following day to help.  A small world.

Just setting out and joined by Sigrid

 As we passed through the villages, I had to stop frequently to take photos of the spring flowers.  The crocus were especially eye catching.  Not only the pale purple ones we have at home, but a bright dark purple, white,  yellow and some striped purple ones.  The sun refused to shine all day and so they remained closed, but still very pretty.  

Flat but pleasant walking

Following not only the Via Romea but the Jacobsweg too

At lunch time, instead of stopping for my bread roll (which was useful for breakfast the following day!), Sigrid had sighted up on a golf club restaurant where we had a delicious hot lunch – a perfect way to spend the first day!  Sigrid also helped me by calling the ‘hospitalera’ of the albergue where I was to sleep.  We saved her a journey, as we were quite late, and instead of rushing we stopped at the Ice-cream cafe for a coffee, arriving as they were setting up the church for a special Palm Sunday Service. 

One of the many buildings we saw along the way

The albergue was a special room at the back of the church.  I was there alone and relished the hot shower that had been built especially for pilgrims, and a very comfortable nights rest.  I went to the Church service, but of course didn’t understand one word, and even more disappointing, only recognized one hymn.  The organist was most impressive, managing the overhead to tell people what the hymn number was, leading the singing, and playing a pretty grand instrument. 

Arriving in Haresfeld

My room for the night