Really, all I can say for these past few days is “Wow”! Since beginning I have enjoyed every section of this route thus far, but for scenery this section is spectacular. Yet, despite the fact that I am in the mountains I have barely been aware that I have been climbing, though I realise that things will change dramatically in the next week or so. Yes, there have been some steep little hills, but no sooner have I reached the top, than I begin descending. As I write I am at about 900 metres altitude, but to get here there has been no noticeable climb. I am surrounded by high peaks, some with patches of snow still on them, as I make my way up the valley.
I will skip ahead to today, which has been great fun, and very interesting. I began walking in sunshine, with the bells of the church sounding the morning peal as I left. After about 4 kilometres I stopped at a Biergatrten for a lemonade – which came out as a fanta (I think). I drank it as I didn’t want to become dehydrated and continued on my way to another of the surprises that I keep finding on this way. The walk was lovely – through the forest, cool in the shade, and soft underfoot, just slightly elevated so that I got a view across the meadows to the hills on the other side of the valley. The surprise was the Benedictine Kloster at Ettal. A massive and ornate building. Obviously, from the evidence in the shop, quite busy these days making beer and (I think) brandy. This is a place that is on the tourist trail. There were about 4 bus loads of tourists there when I arrived, one (or maybe even two) of which were in the church listening to a lecture from a guide. I stopped and got a stamp in my pilgrim passport from the monk who was doing all the serving at the shop counter.
As I was leaving the Kloster I noticed a BIG very BLACK cloud and wondered if it, or I, would win the race! It turned out a sort of dead heat! I didn’t make it to my destination before I felt the first heavy drops, but I did make it within a few seconds to the bus shelter. Then the heavens opened. A few bikers pulled up early on and put their wet weather gear on over their leathers, heading off as it seemed that the rain was easing, but more arrived repeating the actions. After this action was repeated three or four times things changed. The rain was getting heavier, and the bikers obviously decided it was better to hang around, and I certainly wasn’t budging as thunder had started. More of them arrived including a poor drenched cyclist . Very soon the hail began and we were a group of about a dozen cramped in the bus shelter, with as many cars pulled up on the road, which was white. It was at this point that I lost control of what I was going to do! I had the “old” blokes (my age), and the young blokes telling me that it wasn’t safe to walk. The young blokes were checking out a bus time for me, and the older blokes checked the timetable on the other side of the street. Next thing I knew I was bundled across the street, one of the blokes stopping the traffic so that I could safely cross (I was worried that I would slip on the hail) to catch the bus due in three minutes. I gave up and did as I was told – yes, I know, why change the habit of a life time and start doing that now, you ask!!!!?? They waited till I got on the bus, and when I did, I found I was in the company of many others who had got caught, including a couple of cyclists, with their bikes as well. Thus I am several towns further on than I intended today!
I have lost the Lech, but gained the Ammer river. A few kilometres after leaving Rottenbuch there is a bridge that crosses the Ammer. The gorge that it crosses is very deep, but the river is nothing like the Lech in size. I was a bit nervous crossing the bridge – we were very high above the gorge bottom, but I was thankful that I didn’t have to descend down into the gorge and then climb out of it. The novelty about the rivers that I am now walking near is that they are crystal clear. Only Australians will understand just what a novelty that is.
Much of the terrain I have been walking through has been lovely meadow land. In some cases the meadows had been mowed, some were in the processes of being mowed, and on others tractors were out turning the grass. The meadows are really pretty, with flowers such as daisies, dandelions, clover, and what looks like Queen Ann Lace. The meadows are gently undulating – or the ones I am walking along are, and there are patches of forest bordering them. I have felt that I am getting quite close to the Tirol, though I am not sure if this part of the world recognises that there are many similarities.
The locals are so friendly. I got bailed up by one bloke as I left Rottenbuch chatting for quite some time, and then as I was taking a photo of the church on the outskirts of the town an elderly lady stopped and chatted. She has always wanted to visit Australia, but can’t contemplate the long journey – USA was long enough for her. As I left her I had her message ringing in my ears – “very lucky, very lucky” - meaning, I think, have a good journey!
I stopped last night in the town of Oberammergau, the town famous for its once in a decade Passion Play. It is always held on the first year of the decade 1990, 2000, 2010 and so on. The next one will be in 2020. The hotel I stayed in last night had photos of their family in costume for a number of decades. I believe that you can only act in it if you are a local, and the key roles of Jesus, the disciples and such like are much sought after. The whole town revolves around the play even in years when it is not performed, with shops selling wonderful (and some not so) souvenirs. The play used to be held outside, but in the early 20th Century a special theatre was built for it to be performed in. It is hard to believe, but the theatre holds up to 4,700 people, with the performances held over a 5 month period and involving around 2,000 cast and crew. The play was actually performed for the first time in 1634 in gratitude for the fact that the death rate from the Bubonic Plague had stopped.
Leaving Oberammergau the path followed the River Ammer again, and it wasn’t till I was ambling along that the penny dropped that the word Ammer is in the name of the town, and also for the village of Unterammergau!
I will skip ahead to today, which has been great fun, and very interesting. I began walking in sunshine, with the bells of the church sounding the morning peal as I left. After about 4 kilometres I stopped at a Biergatrten for a lemonade – which came out as a fanta (I think). I drank it as I didn’t want to become dehydrated and continued on my way to another of the surprises that I keep finding on this way. The walk was lovely – through the forest, cool in the shade, and soft underfoot, just slightly elevated so that I got a view across the meadows to the hills on the other side of the valley. The surprise was the Benedictine Kloster at Ettal. A massive and ornate building. Obviously, from the evidence in the shop, quite busy these days making beer and (I think) brandy. This is a place that is on the tourist trail. There were about 4 bus loads of tourists there when I arrived, one (or maybe even two) of which were in the church listening to a lecture from a guide. I stopped and got a stamp in my pilgrim passport from the monk who was doing all the serving at the shop counter.
The Benedictine Abbey at Ettal. It dates from 1300
As I was leaving the Kloster I noticed a BIG very BLACK cloud and wondered if it, or I, would win the race! It turned out a sort of dead heat! I didn’t make it to my destination before I felt the first heavy drops, but I did make it within a few seconds to the bus shelter. Then the heavens opened. A few bikers pulled up early on and put their wet weather gear on over their leathers, heading off as it seemed that the rain was easing, but more arrived repeating the actions. After this action was repeated three or four times things changed. The rain was getting heavier, and the bikers obviously decided it was better to hang around, and I certainly wasn’t budging as thunder had started. More of them arrived including a poor drenched cyclist . Very soon the hail began and we were a group of about a dozen cramped in the bus shelter, with as many cars pulled up on the road, which was white. It was at this point that I lost control of what I was going to do! I had the “old” blokes (my age), and the young blokes telling me that it wasn’t safe to walk. The young blokes were checking out a bus time for me, and the older blokes checked the timetable on the other side of the street. Next thing I knew I was bundled across the street, one of the blokes stopping the traffic so that I could safely cross (I was worried that I would slip on the hail) to catch the bus due in three minutes. I gave up and did as I was told – yes, I know, why change the habit of a life time and start doing that now, you ask!!!!?? They waited till I got on the bus, and when I did, I found I was in the company of many others who had got caught, including a couple of cyclists, with their bikes as well. Thus I am several towns further on than I intended today!
VERY big, VERY black clouds (above & below)
From the bus shelter!
I have lost the Lech, but gained the Ammer river. A few kilometres after leaving Rottenbuch there is a bridge that crosses the Ammer. The gorge that it crosses is very deep, but the river is nothing like the Lech in size. I was a bit nervous crossing the bridge – we were very high above the gorge bottom, but I was thankful that I didn’t have to descend down into the gorge and then climb out of it. The novelty about the rivers that I am now walking near is that they are crystal clear. Only Australians will understand just what a novelty that is.
Echelsbacher Bridge (left) and the River Ammer, far below (right)
The Ammer. The needle like tall mountain in the background is Der Kofel.
Crystal clear water! The Ammer
Much of the terrain I have been walking through has been lovely meadow land. In some cases the meadows had been mowed, some were in the processes of being mowed, and on others tractors were out turning the grass. The meadows are really pretty, with flowers such as daisies, dandelions, clover, and what looks like Queen Ann Lace. The meadows are gently undulating – or the ones I am walking along are, and there are patches of forest bordering them. I have felt that I am getting quite close to the Tirol, though I am not sure if this part of the world recognises that there are many similarities.
Meadow land.
Sometimes the path is narrow, sometimes wide.
I passed a small dam, and I think it must have been stocked with fish. There are hundreds of the little critters.
The church where the lady wished me a "very lucky"
This man's wife was busy in the garden, as was a young lady. He was watching.
A little chapel on the way to Saulgrub......
.........and the church in Saulgrub
I stopped last night in the town of Oberammergau, the town famous for its once in a decade Passion Play. It is always held on the first year of the decade 1990, 2000, 2010 and so on. The next one will be in 2020. The hotel I stayed in last night had photos of their family in costume for a number of decades. I believe that you can only act in it if you are a local, and the key roles of Jesus, the disciples and such like are much sought after. The whole town revolves around the play even in years when it is not performed, with shops selling wonderful (and some not so) souvenirs. The play used to be held outside, but in the early 20th Century a special theatre was built for it to be performed in. It is hard to believe, but the theatre holds up to 4,700 people, with the performances held over a 5 month period and involving around 2,000 cast and crew. The play was actually performed for the first time in 1634 in gratitude for the fact that the death rate from the Bubonic Plague had stopped.
Oberammergau - the theatre (above right, and below)
A sculpture in Oberammergau with shop windows in the background
The church in Oberammergau
Very beautiful country and what a pleasure it must be to be out and in it.
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